2011 Tundra 4x4 Problems

[MatthewMay1]

I thought I’d combine all my thoughts and troubleshooting into one place to keep track of it all. Maybe it’ll help someone in the future


I've been trying to fix a 4x4 issue on my 2011 Tundra. When I try to engage 4Hi, the light blinks slowly as it normally would but then after a few seconds it begins blinking faster and fails to engage 4x4. I hear a relay clicking behind the glovebox when it first attempts to engage and then again when it fails and starts blinking faster. I can confirm that the transfer case actuator is not frozen up because I opened it up and checked the motor for freedom of movement. With the engine off and the key in the 'on' position, I can hear the transfer case actuator move when I select 4Hi and then hear it move again when the light starts blinking faster as it fails to engage.

My clean TC actuator showing no signs of corrosion:

I verified that the TC actuator is working because after it makes the whirring sound and I turn the main driveshaft by hand, the front driveshaft turns with it. (Truck on jack stands) I hear no beeping or whirring from the front diff, and then after about 8 seconds the transfer case actuator whirrs again and disconnects the two driveshafts.

I know that the ECU runs a series of quick checks between the transfer case and front diff actuators. What I am experiencing is that the transfer case is engaging, then asking the front diff to engage. When the front diff fails to engage, the transfer case reverts back to 2Hi mode.

Update:

I removed my front actuator and tested it to see if it was frozen. The motor spins freely when power is applied, and the fork in the diff is able to be moved by hand with ease. Below is a photo of the front ADD actuator opened up with no signs of corrosion and a video clip of the motor functioning.

2011 Tundra ADD Actuator test

youtube.com

I guess what I will do next is reinstall the front diff and try the system again. Maybe I’ll get lucky and after opening everything up and working the parts by hand, it’ll just operate normally again with fresh fluid. If not, then I’ll need to test the wiring to see if the ECU is delivering a command to engage the front diff after the transfer case engages. If that isn’t happening, I’ll need to investigate the TC limit switches.

 

[Taco Loco]

I thought I’d combine all my thoughts and troubleshooting into one place to keep track of it all. Maybe it’ll help someone in the future


I've been trying to fix a 4x4 issue on my 2011 Tundra. When I try to engage 4Hi, the light blinks slowly as it normally would but then after a few seconds it begins blinking faster and fails to engage 4x4. I hear a relay clicking behind the glovebox when it first attempts to engage and then again when it fails and starts blinking faster. I can confirm that the transfer case actuator is not frozen up because I opened it up and checked the motor for freedom of movement. With the engine off and the key in the 'on' position, I can hear the transfer case actuator move when I select 4Hi and then hear it move again when the light starts blinking faster as it fails to engage.

My clean TC actuator showing no signs of corrosion:

View attachment 34197

I verified that the TC actuator is working because after it makes the whirring sound and I turn the main driveshaft by hand, the front driveshaft turns with it. (Truck on jack stands) I hear no beeping or whirring from the front diff, and then after about 8 seconds the transfer case actuator whirrs again and disconnects the two driveshafts.

I know that the ECU runs a series of quick checks between the transfer case and front diff actuators. What I am experiencing is that the transfer case is engaging, then asking the front diff to engage. When the front diff fails to engage, the transfer case reverts back to 2Hi mode.

Update:

I removed my front actuator and tested it to see if it was frozen. The motor spins freely when power is applied, and the fork in the diff is able to be moved by hand with ease. Below is a photo of the front ADD actuator opened up with no signs of corrosion and a video clip of the motor functioning.

View attachment 34198

2011 Tundra ADD Actuator test

youtube.com

I guess what I will do next is reinstall the front diff and try the system again. Maybe I’ll get lucky and after opening everything up and working the parts by hand, it’ll just operate normally again with fresh fluid. If not, then I’ll need to test the wiring to see if the ECU is delivering a command to engage the front diff after the transfer case engages. If that isn’t happening, I’ll need to investigate the TC limit switches.

Similar issue with the Laundry Fairys LX, the only issue we had with the suv, it ended up being the actuator itself, it was covered under warranty. I also think the LX stays in 4H all the time, and the traction control light would come on or remain on.

 

[MatthewMay1]

Similar issue with the Laundry Fairys LX, the only issue we had with the suv, it ended up being the actuator itself, it was covered under warranty. I also think the LX stays in 4H all the time, and the traction control light would come on or remain on.

Interesting, I haven't heard much talk about this problem on anything other than the Tundras but I also haven't really been looking for it. Most people writing on the forums who have this problem that I'm experiencing take apart one of their actuators to find it full of rust. Both of mine were beautiful inside and tested operational when I apply 12V power to the motor itself. That is making my problem more difficult to figure out.

 

[TacoXpo]

Send it to Wyatt? Too early?

 

[PSU Taco85]

Check the 4wd detent switch on the transfer case. That is used to confirm the transfer case is in 4wd and send a signal to operate the ADD. If that’s bad it will cause the exact issue you are describing. It will be on the passenger side of the case. Remove with a large socket. When the button is depressed, you will expect 0 ohms.

 

[MatthewMay1]

Check the 4wd detent switch on the transfer case. That is used to confirm the transfer case is in 4wd and send a signal to operate the ADD. If that’s bad it will cause the exact issue you are describing. It will be on the passenger side of the case. Remove with a large socket. When the button is depressed, you will expect 0 ohms.

Thank you! I will definitely look at that next time I go work on this project

 

[TacoXpo]

Check the 4wd detent switch on the transfer case. That is used to confirm the transfer case is in 4wd and send a signal to operate the ADD. If that’s bad it will cause the exact issue you are describing. It will be on the passenger side of the case. Remove with a large socket. When the button is depressed, you will expect 0 ohms.

Reminds me of checking voltage drops with a Volt/Ohm meter. I did it recently diagnosing a 'bad starter' - Voltage to starter I thought I was good. Then I put one end at battery and one on the starter terminal. clip to both and then crank and read voltage. I found I had a splice that was causing a 10v drop. Prior to cranking, the voltage was Zero. Once I put a load on it, it read 10 v.