FJ Cruiser twin stick modification, THE EASY WAY!
First off, I take no responsibility for you screwing up your transfer case, so don't do what I did!
If you've looked into swapping an FJ case into your rig you've also considered twin sticking it. The holdup I had with the whole thing was having to rip the entire case apart. Here's Wyatt's writeup on ripping the whole case apart if you're interested.
So here's what I did.
First off, once you remove the factory shifter you can clearly see the two shift forks through the opening.
The end goal is to get rid of the small 1/8" square nub that sticks into the passenger side shift fork. The passenger side is the 2w/4w shifter and the driver side is hi/neutral/low.
Find yourself a nice rag and wet it with something non-flammable, but sticky stuff. You don't want to catch anything on fire. I took said rag and stuffed it down below the shift forks as well as I could. Then with a buddy manning the shop vac I cut the nub off with a dremel and cutoff wheel.
Before:
After:
Keep the shop vac going while you're cutting. I also had a magnet close by to catch the nub when it was cut all the way through.
Ok, so we're done, right? Nope! We're close, but not quite there. There are two detent balls for the shift rails and a "pill" BETWEEN the shift rails. The detent balls and springs need to come out for the time being. The "pill" locks the two shift rails together. You can cut the nub off, but without removing the "pill" you won't have twin the twin stick ability.
The detent ball and spring that you'll find behind the hex bolt are shown below. There's one set on each side.
So on to the part where you actually get the rails to work independently. Take all of the bolts out that hold the two pieces of the case together. You're going to leave the input shafts in place for this. Just take the bolts out around the perimeter of the case and pry the case apart about 3/4". At that point you can tip the case on it's side, push the lower shift rail forward, and let the "pill" fall out of the case. It will take a little finagling, but you'll get it.
Now seal up your case with your favorite gasket maker and bolt everything back together. The springs and detent balls go back in the case, don't forget that step. That's it, you're done!

First off, I take no responsibility for you screwing up your transfer case, so don't do what I did!
If you've looked into swapping an FJ case into your rig you've also considered twin sticking it. The holdup I had with the whole thing was having to rip the entire case apart. Here's Wyatt's writeup on ripping the whole case apart if you're interested.
So here's what I did.
First off, once you remove the factory shifter you can clearly see the two shift forks through the opening.

The end goal is to get rid of the small 1/8" square nub that sticks into the passenger side shift fork. The passenger side is the 2w/4w shifter and the driver side is hi/neutral/low.
Find yourself a nice rag and wet it with something non-flammable, but sticky stuff. You don't want to catch anything on fire. I took said rag and stuffed it down below the shift forks as well as I could. Then with a buddy manning the shop vac I cut the nub off with a dremel and cutoff wheel.
Before:

After:

Keep the shop vac going while you're cutting. I also had a magnet close by to catch the nub when it was cut all the way through.
Ok, so we're done, right? Nope! We're close, but not quite there. There are two detent balls for the shift rails and a "pill" BETWEEN the shift rails. The detent balls and springs need to come out for the time being. The "pill" locks the two shift rails together. You can cut the nub off, but without removing the "pill" you won't have twin the twin stick ability.
The detent ball and spring that you'll find behind the hex bolt are shown below. There's one set on each side.

So on to the part where you actually get the rails to work independently. Take all of the bolts out that hold the two pieces of the case together. You're going to leave the input shafts in place for this. Just take the bolts out around the perimeter of the case and pry the case apart about 3/4". At that point you can tip the case on it's side, push the lower shift rail forward, and let the "pill" fall out of the case. It will take a little finagling, but you'll get it.

Now seal up your case with your favorite gasket maker and bolt everything back together. The springs and detent balls go back in the case, don't forget that step. That's it, you're done!
