No banjo fitting on these but same ol same ol.I believe that is discussed on the T4R thread in the 3rd gen area and yes. The difference is the brake line business. I do not see why a quality hose with a banjo fitting on the end would not work to replace the metal tube.
No banjo fitting on these but same ol same ol.
He and I talked about it once before. I think he said the worst was the rear discs with the original master cyl/abs system.Mike AKA: mjp2 on TW had a Tundra conversion kit on his Tacoma a long time ago. Said it was the worst mod he had done (no idea why). Not sure if you're still on TW but he's a wealth of info.
Yeah I know F-150 owners have a lot of issues with their rear rotors warping as well.He and I talked about it once before. I think he said the worst was the rear discs with the original master cyl/abs system.
Well, I have a call into the a guy that will definitely know.
The more I am looking, I think the only difference between WG and WL is the location and angle of the hard brake line fitting. May have just been a Sunday circle jerk. Have any of you eliminated the hard line with a ss line? ... or maybe even just purchased longer lines with a male end to plug right in to the caliper? Regardless of how careful I am, making trail repairs, etc, that line ALWAYS gets buggered.
I still run the backing plates. Knowing what OEs do with systems, it wouldn't be there if it didn't help with cooling - and maybe notGreat. I was hoping this would be a different design of caliper as well.
Do you still run your OEM dust covers with your spindle gussets? I ended up taking mine off due to them rubbing.
If you end up returning them just buy a rebuilt caliper and return your OEM for a core charge. I will never rebuild one again. It takes two people to get the stupid little rubber boots on the 4 pistons and the little rubber boots tear so easy.
My main problem with this caliper design is those little rubber boots and how easy it is for anything to get in there to tear them. One little stone, branch, etc...will cause them to rip.
I still run the backing plates. Knowing what OEs do with systems, it wouldn't be there if it didn't help with cooling - and maybe not
I'll buy that for a front wheel drive or 4wd drive but not for a rear wheel drive.
Buy what?I'll buy that for a front wheel drive or 4wd drive but not for a rear wheel drive.
Buy what?
RWD = 2wd = no front CV's
No front CV's and 2wd/rwd still has the dust plates.
Having put 100s of thermocouples, pressure sensors,etc on vehicles while working at GM, I would love to know the difference in temperature difference with or without them.Oh gotcha. The main reason they are on there is to prevent snow or mud getting in there. Also helps keep brake dust off your suspension parts as well. But as far as for cooling goes, it can't help cool it down at all...If you think about it, the metal dust shield will heat up and continue to hold that heat.