CowboyTaco's 2011 DCSB TRD Sport

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Oil changed and Fumoto valve installed. Hard to get a wrench on it without dropping the skid, but it should be on there plenty tight. Now I just need to get a hose that fits the nipple :D
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
I noticed that the passenger side outer CV boot is torn.

I've already got a reboot kit that I bought when I replaced the driver side CV axle. Guess it's time to stop procrastinating and reboot the other axle.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
HVAC stopped blowing intermittently. I had previously posted about this when it temporarily faded and came back, and everyone, or at least @Silverback , pointed me to the blower resistor.

Internet research indicates that the resistor is usually diagnosed by the fan only blowing on full blast. That isn't the case. The A/C light stays on, but the fan will just stop blowing. Yesterday, I turned the A/C off and just left the dial in the position for the fan so that I would know when it kicked back on. At this point, I'm fairly certain that it is that resistor, as it sounds like those are expected to die somewhere between 6 and 10 years. So even if that isn't the problem, it's probably due.

Apparently, Toyota redesigned the harness that plugs into the resistor. It is now a square shape instead of being inline. From what I've been able to gather, there was a design issue where one of the pins will burn up inside the harness. So tonight, I get to cut wires and spice in a new connector. It seems like the part should come with some instructions since the wires in the old harness are labeled ABCD and the new one is labeled 1234. TW research has lead me to the conclusion that
A=4
B=3
C=2
D=1

I also picked up some new OEM LCAs. The Dorman ones sound like crap again and 12 months is too short of a service interval for those...even with the lifetime warranty. I feel like Tommy Boy took a crap in a box and slapped a guarantee on it. So I'm going to put back on some quality parts from Callahan (Toyota). I no longer need @tx_shooter to mail me my originals.

And finally, figured while I was blowing money away, I picked up the new EVAP canister. Hopefully I get through the winter without throwing those 5 codes again. (same ones that @PSU Taco85 just fixed)

McGeorge Toyota was the cheapest, but I was able to get the AutoNation Toyota dealership that is local to price match. I did have to pay tax, so it was a little more expensive, but I didn't have to wait for shipping.

Oh, and doing a 5 tire rotation last night, I noticed that one of the boots on my driver side sway bar end link is torn. So I'll be doing some research today to see about repairing or replacing that. Replacement is most likely. OEM is $104 each and I like to replace parts like that on each side at the same time. Not sure I care to spend $208 + shipping for those, but I don't think I trust the $30 cheap replacements that are online. 80% of the parts that I've replaced that are non-OEM have sucked by comparison.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Yep, twice.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Good luck with the evap canister. Without a body lift you’re going to have to cut a notch in the bed supports or raise the bed up an inch or two to wiggle it out.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Good luck with the evap canister. Without a body lift you’re going to have to cut a notch in the bed supports or raise the bed up an inch or two to wiggle it out.

Plan is to raise the bed, but it'll be a minute before I get around to replacing that one.

The reboot kit for my OEM CV axle has been sitting in my garage for over a year now. The D29XL AAL for the Dakar pack has been moved from TX, so I'm guessing it is probably 4 years from purchase. So maybe I'll get to the evap canister in 2022...
 

tx_shooter

You ever try to roughie a bear?
Staff member
HVAC stopped blowing intermittently. I had previously posted about this when it temporarily faded and came back, and everyone, or at least @Silverback , pointed me to the blower resistor.

Internet research indicates that the resistor is usually diagnosed by the fan only blowing on full blast. That isn't the case. The A/C light stays on, but the fan will just stop blowing. Yesterday, I turned the A/C off and just left the dial in the position for the fan so that I would know when it kicked back on. At this point, I'm fairly certain that it is that resistor, as it sounds like those are expected to die somewhere between 6 and 10 years. So even if that isn't the problem, it's probably due.

Apparently, Toyota redesigned the harness that plugs into the resistor. It is now a square shape instead of being inline. From what I've been able to gather, there was a design issue where one of the pins will burn up inside the harness. So tonight, I get to cut wires and spice in a new connector. It seems like the part should come with some instructions since the wires in the old harness are labeled ABCD and the new one is labeled 1234. TW research has lead me to the conclusion that
A=4
B=3
C=2
D=1

I also picked up some new OEM LCAs. The Dorman ones sound like crap again and 12 months is too short of a service interval for those...even with the lifetime warranty. I feel like Tommy Boy took a crap in a box and slapped a guarantee on it. So I'm going to put back on some quality parts from Callahan (Toyota). I no longer need @tx_shooter to mail me my originals.

And finally, figured while I was blowing money away, I picked up the new EVAP canister. Hopefully I get through the winter without throwing those 5 codes again. (same ones that @PSU Taco85 just fixed)

McGeorge Toyota was the cheapest, but I was able to get the AutoNation Toyota dealership that is local to price match. I did have to pay tax, so it was a little more expensive, but I didn't have to wait for shipping.

Oh, and doing a 5 tire rotation last night, I noticed that one of the boots on my driver side sway bar end link is torn. So I'll be doing some research today to see about repairing or replacing that. Replacement is most likely. OEM is $104 each and I like to replace parts like that on each side at the same time. Not sure I care to spend $208 + shipping for those, but I don't think I trust the $30 cheap replacements that are online. 80% of the parts that I've replaced that are non-OEM have sucked by comparison.

Crap. They are in the boxes in my garage waiting for to get mailed with a layer of dust on them.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Just so it doesn't get lost, I found this video on troubleshooting a horn that doesn't work:


Pretty sure a clock spring is something that I'll be ordering sooner than later.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Scratch that A/C resistor from my list of things to do.

Georgia heat and an hour commute home with no A/C yesterday was enough motivation for me. I didn't line up the numbers, but I found this on TW and it was the winning combination. What blows my mind is that the gauge of wire does not line up. As in there are two thicker and two thinner wires. One 2 of them, you're lining up a thicker and thinner wire. Doesn't seem like that is the best idea, but it is what worked.

TRUCK > NEW HARNESS
White/Blue Stripe > Solid White
White/Black Stripe > White/Black Stripe*
Green/Yellow Stripe > Solid Green
Blue/Black Stripe > Solid Blue*

*the mismatched gauge of wires.

My wife needed the truck and was sitting in the driver seat waiting for me to finish so she could leave. The 5 second test after completion was a success. Hopefully this one last as long (or longer) than the original.
20210715_130142.jpg


20210715_123730.jpg
 
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CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Driving to the pool on Saturday, I had the AC blasting...because, why not?

After several minutes enjoyed, it flickered. I had just enough time to think "oh, no..." before it went out completely. Checked all my connections and everything looks good, so I don't know what it could be.

I did find an article where someone said that something could have gotten past the in-cabin air filter and gotten lodged in the blower motor. So I took out the in-cabin filter while I was vacuuming. It was filthy, so I vacuumed out the big stuff and have a new one on order (this one was replaced 10k ago, so I was surprised at how dirty it had become). While it was out, I stuck the shop vac hose as far into the opening as it would go just in case something was down there. I didn't see or hear anything get sucked up, but the fan kicked on as soon as I put the key in the "on" position.

My confidence that the vacuum was a long term fix is minimal. I'm sort of just waiting for it to stop working again. I don't think the new resistor is bad. The fan speed is either all working or none working. So at this point, if it goes out again, I'm leaning toward either the switch itself or the blower motor.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
I swapped out my blower motor about 4 years ago. I went with a cheap RockAuto one, like $50 or so. So far its been fine, but I haven't used it much in the past 2 years.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
I swapped out my blower motor about 4 years ago. I went with a cheap RockAuto one, like $50 or so. So far its been fine, but I haven't used it much in the past 2 years.

I saw where someone recommended the Carquest one at Advance Auto Parts. $68 and lifetime warranty. The one around the corner from me has it in stock, so I may go that route if I feel like that is the cause. I don't really want to go throwing parts at it, but $40 for the resistor and $70 for a blower motor is still probably cheaper than I could take it anywhere. Now to figure out how to determine if I think that is the problem...
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Oh yeah, for the lifetime warranty I would go that route. It was very easy to install IIRC. Just a few screws and a cannon plug.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Found the source of my A/C problems. It's the little 4 pin connector that connects to the blower motor. So now I just gotta figure out how to make that get a better connection.

We rode to Cloudland Canyon State Park in GA this weekend and hiked the Waterfall trails. Then up to Chattanooga for dinner and spent the night in Cleveland, TN before whitewater rafting with Bigfoot Ocoee Outfitters.

Temporary fix for the drive:
1627308628147.png


Had my wife place her foot under the blower motor. Sucked for her, but got the AC blowing :D
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Found the source of my A/C problems. It's the little 4 pin connector that connects to the blower motor. So now I just gotta figure out how to make that get a better connection.

We rode to Cloudland Canyon State Park in GA this weekend and hiked the Waterfall trails. Then up to Chattanooga for dinner and spent the night in Cleveland, TN before whitewater rafting with Bigfoot Ocoee Outfitters.

Temporary fix for the drive:
View attachment 36478

Had my wife place her foot under the blower motor. Sucked for her, but got the AC blowing :D
Yeah that's my issue. I just pushed on it and it started working again. @thekidcatcher does the same thing with his Tacoma.
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Yeah that's my issue. I just pushed on it and it started working again. @thekidcatcher does the same thing with his Tacoma.

That was mine too, it ended up just being the resistors though, hadn't had a problem since replaced.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
That was mine too, it ended up just being the resistors though, hadn't had a problem since replaced.

If it ended up being the resistor, then this wasn't your problem. I've already replaced the resistor and the issue persists. I'm not talking about the 4-pin that connects to the resistor. I'm talking about the 4-pin that connects to the blower motor. I'll snag a pic of it later today. I need to figure out how to get it to make a better connection.
 
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