CowboyTaco's 2011 DCSB TRD Sport

[CowboyTaco]

Installed ECGS bushing, new axle seal and wheel bearing hub assembly on the driver side. Did a 100mi test drive to go pick up a new-to-me ARE camper top with Yakima rails.

Old axle seal removed and everything wiped down:

A couple of thoughts of things that I learned:

1. Don't waste time trying to remove the hub bearing assembly from the axle with anything other than a hub puller. I learned this last time and it saved me this time. https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...ler/oem-front-wheel-drive-hub-puller/2050_0_0
2. Don't be afraid to hit the axle with some force. A long flat head screw driver and 4lb engineering hammer did the trick for me.
3. Getting the EGCS bearing removal tool between the spider gear and needle bearing was a royal pain. I could get it to start wedging in, but couldn't get it to drop in fully. After much deliberation and speaking with others who have done it, I decided to get it lined up as best as I could and then use the flathead screwdriver and hammer trick. I didn't have to! I got the screw driver and hammer lined up and it just sort of fell into place. I couldn't believe it. It looks like a lot of people shave the tool down because this is a common problem.
4. Many people recommended the bearing race driver tool from AutoZone (https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...m-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set/391360_0_0) I found this to be utterly useless. There isn't enough room to actually hit the end with a hammer with any sort of force. I used a socket (either 1 1/8 or 1 1/16, I think).
5. Removing the old axle seal was also a pain. The slide hammer loaner made quick work of that: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...-slide-hammer-puller-attachment-kit/69342_0_0 (Turn the hooks so that they face outward.)
6. To install the new axle seal, a little grease on the outside edge was recommended. It went in easier than expected once i rented this set https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...3-pcs-ball-joint-u-joint-press-set/449947_0_0. One of the adapters fit perfectly around the outer edge of the seal (metal covered in rubber). Just be careful not to install it too deep.

I actually did install the axle seal too deep on one side. Due to the angle, I couldn't really see it and I assumed it was going in flush. Since I had the grease on it, I was able to pry it back out some without damaging it. It isn't perfectly flush, but I'm hoping it's "good enough." I did a 100 mile round tip to pick up the camper top Saturday morning and no oil was leaked from what I can tell. Also, my driveway is clean.

1st and 2nd post updated

 

[CowboyTaco]

Finally got out to explore some of the nature of my new surroundings.... the foothills of the Appalachian mountains. Also, the southern most point of the Appalachian trail is in the area. We're saving that for another day.

For now, Indian Grave Gap Rd. and the High Shoals Trail.

The first and only water crossing on Indian Grave Gap Road. It felt good to drive through the water when so many others were parking to walk across.

A quick "pit stop" once I was sure no one else was coming up the road.

Then I realized how many other vehicles forged the water crossing... dang it! This is only one of 4 pictures of sedans and vans that made it through.

Anyway, the hike was beautiful with 2 waterfalls as the reward.

Blue Hole Fall

And High Shoal Fall

After that, I went scouting for a decent campsite. I think I found a few good options.

Here, some "defacement" of a rock along Tray Mountain Rd.

It's so nice having this within an hour drive!

 

[Oswego]

Cool so if I ever hike the AT Ill hit you up

 

[CowboyTaco]

140k reached on 5/4/19

Oil changed and tires rotated on 5/5/2019

 

[Taco Loco]

140k reached on 5/4/19
View attachment 14925

Oil changed and tires rotated on 5/5/2019

While driving

 

[Silverback]

Only in Saudi Arabia.

 

[CowboyTaco]

Went to get lunch today. Came out to start the truck. Nothing. Not even a click. or series of clicks. Nothing.

Luckily a guy that works for a fencing company was leaving at the same time and was willing to give me a jump. Got home and didn't even have enough power to unlock the doors once I turned it off. Guess I'm in the market for a new battery.

When I replaced it the last time, I went with the Toyota OEM because it had the longest warranty and I was able to convince the guy at the parts counter that I had a wholesale account. So it was also the cheapest that I could find. I also remember it giving me warning the last time. Like it struggled to start, but it still did. With the prorated warranty, another new battery from Toyota will cost $68.

Sam's is $80 for regular. I don't see a 27F AGM battery on their website listed currently.
AutoZone is $140 or $200 for AGM
Advanced is $140
Napa is $128
Walmart is $120

Looks like I'll be headed to the Toyota dealership after work.

 

[AlienXtx]

Look at Batteries +. I'm currently getting all my bus batteries through them.

 

[CowboyTaco]

Look at Batteries +. I'm currently getting all my bus batteries through them.

Same as the others, but with 10% off.

 

[AlienXtx]

Well 10% is 10% I guess
We have not had any issues yet like we were with the NAPA ones

 

[Silverback]

I've bought several through Batteries +. Not the cheapest though.

 

[Oswego]

I just got a Duralast gold for $168. I did no research. Just knew my last one was good to me and it had 750 cold cranking amps and so does the new one so it's good for those cold winter mornings.

 

[CowboyTaco]

So I was getting ready to head to the dealership last night when the lightbulb went off... or did it turn on.

I have the secondary battery from the 4runner that the guy didn't buy when he purchased the battery tray and accessory tray. It's a group 34 and not 27F, but should work.

So I called my cousin. You know, the one who rolled his Chevy in Moab.

Well, he's also an electrician by trade. So I asked if I would be doing any damage by running the group 34 instead of the 27F. The CCA on the 34 rated at 775 compared to 710 on the 27F. He said to go for it if it fit.

The battery isn't as tall, but the cables reach the terminals. One hurdle overcome! To address the height, and lack of threads on the factory battery tie down, I sacrificed an 11mm socket. Kind of junky, but it holds it down just fine.

The negative cable is a little tighter than I like, but I will be addressing that soon anyway. I'll leave you with that little cliffhanger.

 

[CowboyTaco]

So after the battery issue reasonably solved, I decided to look for the original breather location that @Oswego is currently searching. I walked over to the passenger side and happened to notice that my frame looked immaculate! Nice and black and reasonably shiny. I immediately think that I either drive through some oil somewhere or I have a leak.

It didn't take me long to find this little gem.

Toyota remans are on backorder with 104 orders already pending.

Shit. What to do?

I've been reading a lot about CV axles lately, so I didn't have to do a whole lot of research. I almost pulled the trigger on a Cardone CV axle on Amazon for $35 shipped. I remembered seeing a Cardone HD version available from Rock Auto. The major difference being stronger boots. I ordered that instead for right at $70 shipped.

The two main reasons for Rock Auto over Amazon was the boots and the delivery. I needed my truck today and not again until next Tuesday. Amazon, without prime, could get it to me on Tuesday (estimated); whereas RockAuto estimated having it to me on Monday. So I get HD boots and delivered when I need it.

I've heard good things about the regular Cardone, so hopefully the HD is even better. It does have a lifetime warranty if it isn't though. I also plan to purchase the OEM reboot kit so that I'll have another ready to go if/when I need it.

 

[Large]

looks like the boot is ripped? Just get a new boot kit

 

[Oswego]

Good ol karma - you try to help me out and catch something before it becomes a bigger issue

 

[Silverback]

Shit man I got the highest CCA battery I could find when I replaced mine. Its still all 12 volts... more amps just means it will turn it over faster.

 

[Anathollo]

So after the battery issue reasonably solved, I decided to look for the original breather location that @Oswego is currently searching. I walked over to the passenger side and happened to notice that my frame looked immaculate! Nice and black and reasonably shiny. I immediately think that I either drive through some oil somewhere or I have a leak.

It didn't take me long to find this little gem.
View attachment 15066

Toyota remans are on backorder with 104 orders already pending.

Shit. What to do?

I've been reading a lot about CV axles lately, so I didn't have to do a whole lot of research. I almost pulled the trigger on a Cardone CV axle on Amazon for $35 shipped. I remembered seeing a Cardone HD version available from Rock Auto. The major difference being stronger boots. I ordered that instead for right at $70 shipped.

The two main reasons for Rock Auto over Amazon was the boots and the delivery. I needed my truck today and not again until next Tuesday. Amazon, without prime, could get it to me on Tuesday (estimated); whereas RockAuto estimated having it to me on Monday. So I get HD boots and delivered when I need it.

I've heard good things about the regular Cardone, so hopefully the HD is even better. It does have a lifetime warranty if it isn't though. I also plan to purchase the OEM reboot kit so that I'll have another ready to go if/when I need it.

Just get a OEM boot kit and rebuild it... The most exotic tool you'll need is a puller and one of these clamp pliers.

 

[CowboyTaco]

Good ol karma - you try to help me out and catch something before it becomes a bigger issue

I don't really believe in karma, but I thought the same thing. I noticed it pretty quickly when walking up to the truck on that side, but I wouldn't have been on that side if I weren't looking for that breather.

looks like the boot is ripped? Just get a new boot kit

Just get a OEM boot kit and rebuild it... The most exotic tool you'll need is a puller and one of these clamp pliers.

View attachment 15077
View attachment 15078

I will be doing this. However, I'm out of town this weekend and need the truck next Tuesday. New one will be here Friday (was supposed to be Monday, but I guess they overnighted it ). So I'll get that one installed on either Sunday or Monday and have a spare once I reboot the OEM one.

On that note, anyone know if the reboot kit (04428-04010) comes with both boots or just one? Pic on Amazon shows only one. Pic on Ebay shows 2. I figure I'm going to have to call and ask the dealership before ordering.

 

[Anathollo]

I don't really believe in karma, but I thought the same thing. I noticed it pretty quickly when walking up to the truck on that side, but I wouldn't have been on that side if I weren't looking for that breather.





I will be doing this. However, I'm out of town this weekend and need the truck next Tuesday. New one will be here Friday (was supposed to be Monday, but I guess they overnighted it ). So I'll get that one installed on either Sunday or Monday and have a spare once I reboot the OEM one.

On that note, anyone know if the reboot kit (04428-04010) comes with both boots or just one? Pic on Amazon shows only one. Pic on Ebay shows 2. I figure I'm going to have to call and ask the dealership before ordering.

This one below comes with both boots.
Part # 04428-04010 for $36.05 - BOOT KIT, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, IN & OUTBOARD, LH; BOOT KIT, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, IN & OUTBOARD, RH

This one below is only one boot.
Part # 04438-04050 for $22.53 - BOOT KIT, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT INBOARD JOINT, LH; BOOT KIT, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT INBOARD JOINT, RH