Weird, it sounds healthy.
But you can hear me wheeeeeezing in the background
How big of a PITA was it to drop the tank? I need to replace my sending unit (I'll do pump at the same time).. my fuel gauge doesn't read right. Assume its all the shit fuel over the years.
So I'm now not so certain I needed a new sending unit. My wires were cut. By what, I have no idea, but maybe the leaf springs mixing around? The wire is in a bad spot. Maybe it's common
The Haynes manual actually had a pretty good write up for tank removal and fuel pump replacement so check that out.
Everyone I read up on had differing opinions. People talked it up so much I was more concerned with the tank than the engine.
Here's a quick to do list for ya:
Tools needed (all of this is off of memory while being sick

)
17mm socket with some extensions
3/8 or 1/2 ratchet
long sharp/new #2 Phillips head
small dead blow to tap in screw driver (if needed)
dental pick (only if needed to remove mud)
fuel quick disconnect tools in 3/8" and 5/16" (forget which one worked - bought a cheap multi pack)
strap wrench
compressed air (to blow out mud you loosen w/dental pick)
headlamp (hard to see on top of the tank but below the bed)
ratchet strap
second set of hands for install (not really needed for dropping it)
* make the truck safe
*empty gas from tank
* remove rear exhaust pipe/muffler from y pipe and hangers (you’ll need to sit in this spot later to unhook and then later reattach the filler neck and vent)
* remove ds rear tire (I didn't do this and was angry/frustrated I did not)
* disconnect fuel filler neck clamp w/#2 Phillips. tip - the screwdriver does NOT go in the hole in the bracket - that's an optical illusion. Tap into place w/deadblow to insure great fit – you can NOT strip this screw.
* disconnect vent fuel "quick disconnect". Its next to the fuel filler neck clamp
* disconnect supply and return lines in front of the tank. Also supposed to be "quick disconnect". These by far held me up the most. Mine had 11yo mud cemented in so the buttons on the sides were frozen. Took allot of picking, tapping, cussing, and compressed air to free them up.
*fasten ratchet strap under tank so it can’t drop
*remove tank strap bolts and then cotter pins and tank straps so the entire tank can be turned freely while resting on the ratchet strap
*now that you can access the top of the tank, remove the filler neck rubber hose from the tank (prob slid off by itself at this point). Remove the plastic cap covering everything. Now the fuel lines, evap, and douche connector is accessible). Remove the evap line and douche connector.
*drop the tank
*grab strap wrench that’s long enough and turn lefty loosey while unlocking the tabs as you get to them J
(before I started the above I spent 20 minutes washing and scrubbing mud from between the tank and white cap – that said I still missed a ton of mud some of which fell into the tank upon removal so do this if need be)
*remove pump from tank
*dance a jig
BTW – the gas lines are under pressure so be mindful when first disconnecting them.
Did you put gas back in the tank?
Yes sir, 5 gallons and not one drip of leakage....good news is my fuel gauge now works again and isn't stuck on "E" with the light on like it was for 3 years prior to the engine blowing