'02 Crew Cab F-350 Tow Pig Overhual/Build

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Always nice to see niche companies that fix products for the public, especially when they are in the US like that one is.

yep that was one of my biggest reasons for going with them. Seems they employ legal hard working Americans and guarantee their work so that is good enough for me to give them a shot. 1 day turnaround once the cluster is received too, it should be there tomorrow so if all goes well I might even get it back by Saturday.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Circuit board medics was great. Can't say enough about those guys they did a great job and a fast turn around time. I shipped it out Monday and had the cluster rebuilt and back to me by Saturday afternoon. While I was at it I converted the bulbs to LEDs
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While I was at it I also had a burnt out bulb on the climate controls so I swapped those to LEDs
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While I had the interior apart I finally wired up my heated mirrors. I had the heated feature since I swapped to the 08-10 mirrors but only ran the wire into the cab and never powered it up for the last 2 years haha. I ended up tapping into the F29 fuse for the customer access wire, on the 2002's its behind the OBD2 port. Looks like both mirrors draw a little over 5 amps, the F29 is 10 amps so I should be good to go.

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Mirrors started out at around 65 deg
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After about 5 minutes they were up about 10 degrees
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I looked at a bunch of options and I ended up going with a product called ThermaSync, they make defrosters for rear windows and mirrors. Once you press the button it goes on a 15 minute timer then automatically shuts off; and since it's also tied to the ignition power I won't have to worry about leaving it on anyhow.
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Sits right next to the fuse panel
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Price was very reasonable, $40 shipped so that beats trying to source the OEM setup. My only regret is where I located the switch, it didn't fit too great but it works. They provide 3M double sided tape to stick it to your existing dash after you cut a hole. The problem is that the area I picked wasn't flat but a bit curved so there's a little gap on the edge of the switch but honestly I'll probably be the only one to notice though. I'm just happy to have the gauge cluster working again and my heated mirrors finally hooked up, only took me 2 years :oops::rolleyes:lol
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AlienXtx

Nignog
Looks good man, that was faster then the dealership gets a new one to you lol
That little round dial knob looks like the one for my stealth module.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Looks good man, that was faster then the dealership gets a new one to you lol
That little round dial knob looks like the one for my stealth module.

thanks, yep and that’s the truth. You can even pay an extra $50 if you want a same day turnaround. The little knob for mine is for the ts6 chip, I should label it I can never remember the setting I left it on lol
 

AlienXtx

Nignog
Mines not labeled either. I mounted it so the highest setting it up so each click to the left is the next setting down. I made the little black ring out of a paint can cap lol

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PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Well not a whole lot has been goin on with the truck. Renewed the registration for the year, took it to haul some tires to get remounted the other week for my buddy. Finally decided to cough up the bucks to replace the trans temp gauge with a more usable one for fuel pressure. The PO had the trans temp gauge wired to the lights, but from what I could tell no sensor was ever installed (I believe for ZF-6 you need to weld a bung in the PTO cover, as there is no inspection port).

In any event, that trans gauge never read anything since I bought the truck so today ordered the matching AutoMeter stepper motor gauge. Damn they are pricey, but they offer 15% off to military and first responders :). While I was at it, I ordered 3 LEDs to replace the white bulbs with green backlight to hopefully match the OEM gauge cluster a little better. I may splurge for the Edge CTS3 next month so that I can see the rest of the sensors such as ECT, EOT, HPOP pressure, battery voltage, and anything else that might be available to view on over the OBDII bus. The 7.3 lacked an EGT and fuel pressure sensor from the factory, so adding these analog gauges were required. I believe the MAP sensor tops out at around 30 psi so having the gauge that goes up to 60 psi is a little more better.
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Gauge that will be replaced
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PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
I've been collecting parts such as the gauge above and haven't installed yet. I plan to have a weekend where I just knock everything out at once hopefully.

I bought 25' of 3/4" heater hose, some fittings, hose clamps, and a filter assembly to relocate the crankcase ventilation away from the cab.

This filter is actually made for sprayer type applications, but it's a cheap way to make a catch can.

One the 7.3, crank case vent is normally piped back into the intake just prior to the turbo inlet, but that causes oil to collect in the turbo and intercooler pipes over time which results in a mess and occasionally even charge pipes popping off due to the slipperiness from the oil. The PO had routed a crankcase vent hose down by the front axle from the doghouse but the fumes go right up into the cab, it's not bad when you're driving but at a stop light it stinks like shit lol Plan is to run a sort of semi catch can filter on the frame rail and re-direct the crankcase fumes all the way back towards the back axle away from the cab. Something that's been on my list since I bought the truck but never got around to sourcing the parts for.


This also came in today, use to isolate the heater core on Max A/C setting, supposed to help make the A/C much colder, we shall see. Picked up some vacuum line and some T connectors at the local vato zone.
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PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Well two months of sitting on the work bench, the fuel pressure gauge is in and the heater core bypass valve is installed lol
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Tap into the recirc damper actuator vacuum line to isolate the heater core on the "max AC" setting
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Finished the install of my autometer fuel pressure gauge and changed out the front fuel filter while I had the bowl depressurized. Also converted my other gauge illumination circuits to green LEDs to match the instrument cluster. Previous owner had some hack wiring job done here, so I had to rewire the power and grounds to the pillar and clean up the engine bay wiring a bit.
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nighttime shots, they aren't as bright as the picture makes it out to be, iPhone makes the nighttime pictures a little deceiving.
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This was the pressure with the Riffraff FRx gold spring and Airdog II-4G DF-165 pump, 58 psi at idle. May swap to the black spring to bump pressure up a hair.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Installed some split loom on the wire going to the fuel pressure sender. If you've never used one of these little tools I suggest you get one, they make installing a breeze. I think there are free files available you can print one yourself if you have a 3D printer
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Today I relocated my CCV to the back of the axle, was tired of smelling the fumes up by the cab. Ran it through a small filter used for sprayers that I found at TSC, seems to work pretty well. Used some existing holes on the frame that lined up exactly with the u-bolt, it's not 100% level but that's fine by me, no making brackets or drilling into the frame required. Put a "T" off the doghouse and routed above the brake booster, then down the drivers frame rail.
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PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Got the edge CTS3 mounted on the windshield next to the 3 pillar pod, looks decent there and doesn't block too much of the view. Nice to be able to see the IPR duty cycle and ICP pressure.
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PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Went to pick up a load of firewood yesterday and the right rear wheel starting smoking like crazy, limped home and found I have a seized caliper. Ordered a set of powerstop caliper/pad/rotor kit for the rear, should be in later this week. The rear 10.5 axle is known for having issues with calipers, so I guess consider me a statistic of that.
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PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Brakes are installed and pads bedded. Seem to work well, time will tell I guess.
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During install noticed that both slide pins on one of the new calipers were bent, some idiot must have dropped it at the factory. Ended up reusing my old slide pins on one side, not a huge deal and I’ll send rock auto an email maybe they’ll give me some money back, not hopeful that will happen though lol
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PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Looks like I have a front crank seal leak that's slowly getting worse. Doesn't seem to be too bad of a job, going to order some parts this week. I'll replace the LPOP with a Melling 10 tooth while I'm at it, since it comes with the new gasket, housing, and crank seal. Think I'll wait to get my Toyota fixed and good until I tear into it though, don't like to have both trucks down at the same time if I can help it lol
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Well I finally got around to changing the LPOP and front crank seal, everything fired back up ok I'll keep my fingers crossed no leaks.

Crank bolt removed, keyway was RTV'd from the factory so luckily that didn't pop out when I pulled the HB.
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HB removed, old oil pump full of wonderful dirty diesel oil
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Old oil pump removed and sealing surface cleaned up
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While I was at it I just went ahead and put on a new HB, it also came with the wear ring pressed on which was an added bonus
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Old LPOP and HB
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New Melling M208 oil pump with seal that comes pressed in. Melling is supposedly higher flow than stock and is a 10 tooth pump vs. stock which is 14.
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New pump torqued down on the timing cover and seal lip greased
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HB pressed on and torqued to 212 ft. lbs, that was fun. 6 speed makes easy work to keep the crankshaft locked :)
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Everything reassembled minus the fan and shroud
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The cheap ass fan clutch rental tool bent on me so I borrowed my buddies 1-7/8" wrench to tighten the fan on the water pump
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I also picked up a Tonneau cover from FB market place for half price of new, a Truxedo Lo Pro. I'm digging the extra dry storage and it rolls up easy and doesn't hinder any bed storage if I need to have the bed open.
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Long day, and now time for a shower and some much needed rest
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Well I finally got around to changing the LPOP and front crank seal, everything fired back up ok I'll keep my fingers crossed no leaks.

Crank bolt removed, keyway was RTV'd from the factory so luckily that didn't pop out when I pulled the HB.
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HB removed, old oil pump full of wonderful dirty diesel oil
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Old oil pump removed and sealing surface cleaned up
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While I was at it I just went ahead and put on a new HB, it also came with the wear ring pressed on which was an added bonus
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Old LPOP and HB
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New Melling M208 oil pump with seal that comes pressed in. Melling is supposedly higher flow than stock and is a 10 tooth pump vs. stock which is 14.
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New pump torqued down on the timing cover and seal lip greased
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HB pressed on and torqued to 212 ft. lbs, that was fun. 6 speed makes easy work to keep the crankshaft locked :)
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Everything reassembled minus the fan and shroud
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The cheap ass fan clutch rental tool bent on me so I borrowed my buddies 1-7/8" wrench to tighten the fan on the water pump
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I also picked up a Tonneau cover from FB market place for half price of new, a Truxedo Lo Pro. I'm digging the extra dry storage and it rolls up easy and doesn't hinder any bed storage if I need to have the bed open.
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Long day, and now time for a shower and some much needed rest
How many miles on the water pump?
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
How many miles on the water pump?

i replaced that when I first picked it up, so not too many. Maybe 4K or less miles plus the coolant filter is supposed to extend the life of the pump seals. The coolant on the bottom of the pump you may see on a few pictures is “normal” because it will leak out of the weep hole on startup.
 
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