CowboyTaco's 2011 DCSB TRD Sport
- Thread starter CowboyTaco
- Start date
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Yeah, you did a really good job. I wouldn't do it.
Same here. My passenger side window is peeling off.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Patience was definitely required. You can imagine my frustration when I had enough to do 4 windows and had to rip off the one I was working on.
Even still, it averages about $10 per window for ceramic tint. Much better than paying professional prices.
Even still, it averages about $10 per window for ceramic tint. Much better than paying professional prices.
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Nice job!
I need to do this for the skidsteer, local tint company quoted me $1600
what a fricken joke.
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
That is ridiculous!! My F250 was $600 and that included the clear front ceramic.
Yeah, I need to redo the tint on my 4Runner. The passenger side tint is so wavy it is difficult to see out of now.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Last 2 or 3 times that I've started the truck, it has been slow to start. I've looked into starting issues and it seems that most issues with slow starts point to the battery (which is 14 months old) or the cable (which is 13 years old). Battery is more likely, so I suppose I'll have it tested. Maybe do a voltage drop test on the cable.
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
I had a group 31 Odyssey battery die in 7 months. So it could be.
Do not overlook cleaning both ends of the cable. I did that on the Tacoma and it was starting like a champ again. That battery was only 2 years old.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
I figure before I even get the battery tested, I'll check the voltage and make sure the connectors are clean. They should be, but I'll clean them out good anyway.
I have always liked the idea of the battery terminal that displays volts, but I doubt I will spend the money on something that is rarely seen.
I have always liked the idea of the battery terminal that displays volts, but I doubt I will spend the money on something that is rarely seen.
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Could be the voltage at the starter too. That wire is always hot so just stick a meter on there and have a buddy monitor the voltage while cranking the engine. Even better would be to pull the fuel pump relay while doing that so you can see how low the voltage gets before the engine turns over.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Cleaning the battery connection seems to have worked!
They didn't look particularly bad, but they have never been cleaned. I already had one of those tools with the brushes to clean both the terminal and the post, so I just disconnected them and cleaned each one at a time. There was not real corrosion to speak of, but I cleaned both sides of the connection anyway.
Truck started up like it was new! Bonus, the 12volt.solutions remote start is working better too. For a while, the 2-way remote was only acting as a 1-way remote. I don't know if it has to do with cleaning the connectors or essentially resetting the ECU, but the 2-way remote is acting like a 2-way remote again.
They didn't look particularly bad, but they have never been cleaned. I already had one of those tools with the brushes to clean both the terminal and the post, so I just disconnected them and cleaned each one at a time. There was not real corrosion to speak of, but I cleaned both sides of the connection anyway.
Truck started up like it was new! Bonus, the 12volt.solutions remote start is working better too. For a while, the 2-way remote was only acting as a 1-way remote. I don't know if it has to do with cleaning the connectors or essentially resetting the ECU, but the 2-way remote is acting like a 2-way remote again.
Nice to see a simple thing win.