CowboyTaco's 2011 DCSB TRD Sport

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Yeah, you did a really good job. I wouldn't do it.
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Not sure I would have the patience to do tint. But I do need to redo my tint. With the fading and the chips from the seat belt hitting the window over the years...
Yeah, you did a really good job. I wouldn't do it.
Same here. My passenger side window is peeling off.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Patience was definitely required. You can imagine my frustration when I had enough to do 4 windows and had to rip off the one I was working on.

Even still, it averages about $10 per window for ceramic tint. Much better than paying professional prices.
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Patience was definitely required. You can imagine my frustration when I had enough to do 4 windows and had to rip off the one I was working on.

Even still, it averages about $10 per window for ceramic tint. Much better than paying professional prices.

Nice job!

I need to do this for the skidsteer, local tint company quoted me $1600 lol what a fricken joke.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
That is ridiculous!! My F250 was $600 and that included the clear front ceramic.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Last 2 or 3 times that I've started the truck, it has been slow to start. I've looked into starting issues and it seems that most issues with slow starts point to the battery (which is 14 months old) or the cable (which is 13 years old). Battery is more likely, so I suppose I'll have it tested. Maybe do a voltage drop test on the cable.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
I had a group 31 Odyssey battery die in 7 months. So it could be.
 

tx_shooter

You ever try to roughie a bear?
Staff member
Do not overlook cleaning both ends of the cable. I did that on the Tacoma and it was starting like a champ again. That battery was only 2 years old.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Could be the voltage at the starter too. That wire is always hot so just stick a meter on there and have a buddy monitor the voltage while cranking the engine. Even better would be to pull the fuel pump relay while doing that so you can see how low the voltage gets before the engine turns over.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Cleaning the battery connection seems to have worked!

They didn't look particularly bad, but they have never been cleaned. I already had one of those tools with the brushes to clean both the terminal and the post, so I just disconnected them and cleaned each one at a time. There was not real corrosion to speak of, but I cleaned both sides of the connection anyway.

Truck started up like it was new! Bonus, the 12volt.solutions remote start is working better too. For a while, the 2-way remote was only acting as a 1-way remote. I don't know if it has to do with cleaning the connectors or essentially resetting the ECU, but the 2-way remote is acting like a 2-way remote again.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Not particularly interesting, but I changed the oil and rotated the tires yesterday. 175k on the clock.

I took a play out of @Taco Loco 's playbook and started writing the date and mileage on the filter a few changes ago. I am amazed that it has been 11 months since I last changed the oil. I think I am about to call the insurance company and back down my annual mileage to 5 or 6k per year. This working from home has some benefits. Sucks that the full coverage on my truck has gone up recently (no accidents, I assume based on vehicle age), so hopefully that will offset some of the cost.

Oh, and I'm loving the Fumoto valve. I really wish I had done it sooner.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Not particularly interesting, but I changed the oil and rotated the tires yesterday. 175k on the clock.

I took a play out of @Taco Loco 's playbook and started writing the date and mileage on the filter a few changes ago. I am amazed that it has been 11 months since I last changed the oil. I think I am about to call the insurance company and back down my annual mileage to 5 or 6k per year. This working from home has some benefits. Sucks that the full coverage on my truck has gone up recently (no accidents, I assume based on vehicle age), so hopefully that will offset some of the cost.

Oh, and I'm loving the Fumoto valve. I really wish I had done it sooner.

hopefully they’ll do something for ya, my insurance said low mileage driven didn’t give me a discount.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
The Futomo valve gets installed with the first oil change on all my vehicles.

It's going on the Expedition next. I held off because I thought there was a chance of getting the new Sequoia, but I think we've decided to just keep the Ford. I can fix a lot of things for the price of trading it on just about anything.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
I think I need to plan on replacing the drums and shoes in the rear.

( x2) 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma Brake Drum (Rear) 42431-04061 | Toyota Parts
(x1) 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma Drum Brake Shoe 04495-04010 | Toyota Parts
(x2?) 1993-2023 Toyota Drum Gasket 42444-35050 | Toyota Parts

Folks on TW say that you don't need to worry about replacing springs or hardware. I'm looking at a little over $237 if I go the McGeorge route. That assumes shipped and no tax.

I could alternatively go with the PowerStop kit for $180 that includes all the hardware as well. More Information for POWER STOP KOE15389DK

NAPA parts appear to be more expensive than OEM, so I'll pass on those.

Any recommendations?
Do I need that gasket (at under $2, I don't see why I wouldn't)?
Anything else I need to plan to replace?

I'm overdue on changing the brake fluid, so I figure that will happen afterward.
 

tx_shooter

You ever try to roughie a bear?
Staff member
I do not remember ever touching the gasket the last time I had a Tacoma's drums off or apart. The $2 might be just piece of mind?
 
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